Minsk, BELARUS

My Lonely Planet guidebook's introduction of Belarus starts with:

"Few people consider venturing into this hermetically sealed Soviet time capsule, notoriously ruled with an iron fist by its moustachioed megalomaniac, Alexander Lukashenko. ...here the KGB still listens in to phone calls and people keep their politics to a low whisper - you will feel as if the Cold War never ended. Westerners cool enough to come here...(blah blah)".

Brief history lession: In 1919 Belarus became the "Byelorussian Soviet Socialist Republic". It merged into the Lithuanian-Byelorussian Soviet Socialist Republic in 1921. In 1921 Joseph Stalin became the general secretary of the Soviet Communist Party. He started a policy of Russification to protect Byelorussia SSR from Western influences. In 1953 Stalin’s successor, Nikita Khrushchev continued with this policy. After seven decades as a constituent republic of USSR, Belarus declared itself sovereign on 27^th July 1990 and attained independence in 1991. Since 1994, Alexander Lukashenko is leading the country.

I'm supposed to register with the police within 3 days of arrival, but honestly I don't have time for that and hope I can eventually leave - a free "unregistered" man.

Minsk is a beautiful and stunning city with the most amazing Stalinist Soviet buildings and statues I have seen in any city. Food is good, beer is "rough" and there's no local wine industry to talk about. The people are what make Minsk special to me. These are the friendliest and most helpful people I have come across anywhere in Eastern Europe, including Russia and the Baltics.

Over the next 8 days I, will criss-cross Belarus - from the west, maybe south, and up to the far north to spend some time with the family of my Minsk based Belarus host. I'm sure I'm in for an unforgettable treat. And, if I get caught by the KGB for not registering....I'm minced meat.

I think I already love Belarus! Few Western tourists here!

Vilnius, LITHUANIA

Spent 4 days in and around Vilnius - what a lovely place.

Will write all about Lithuania when I have more time. Please come back later for more on Lithuania.

Warsaw, POLAND

On August 1, 1944, as Soviet armies approached the city (to liberate it from the Germans), the citizens of Warsaw rose against the Germans and fought for 63 days before they were finally defeated with some 160,000 fatalities. After the uprising, German troops deported the remainder and deliberately destroyed what remained of the city. Soviet and Polish troops liberated Warsaw in January 1945.

Shortly after the end of the war, the rebuilding of Warsaw started. In my opinion, Old Town Warsaw is one of the most beautiful "Old Towns" in the world - probably second to my favourite - Cartagena, northern Colombia in South America.

Tonight I am taking the 10 hour bus north to the former USSR controlled Vilnius, Lithuania.

Ending with a bang: Krakow, POLAND

I was supposed to stay only three days....but Krakow was clinging on to me and I ended up staying another day. Tonight it was concert night on the banks of the Wisla River. The summer night concert was opened with "Venus", by Bananarama...and a few other songs including "Cruel Summer". Then followed "Rat in the Kitchen" and others by UB40. Then several popular European bands such as Gazebo (Italy), and the evening's concert was closed by "Forever Young" by Alphaville...and several other favourite Alphaville songs such as "Sounds like a Melody", "Big in Japan" etc. Oh...the dessert was a 20 minute spectacular fireworks display on the rhythm of Jean-Michelle Jarre. Amazing Krakow.

In a few hours I'm off to Warsaw.

Wieliczka Salt Mine, POLAND

Salt mines.....as if I have not seen enough salt flats in Bolivia and Iran! However, the salt mines of southern Poland is a UNESCO world heritage site! Hmmm....amazing!

One well traveled Frenchman observed in the 18th century that Wieliczka salt mine was no less magnificent than the Egyptian pyramids....I guess that says it all...but then again....that was a French man. Take it from me....your favourite world traveler: Wieliczka Salt Mine is absolutely: Amazing!

Among the famous who visited .... were celebrities such as Copernicus, Goethe, Sarah Bemhardt, Pope John Paul II (no, he fell sick a few days before seeing the unveiling of his statue down deep below the surface), and other more recent well-known people such as Bill and Hillary....oh and the current "leader of the free world"....George.

The Wieliczka Salt Mine has been worked for 700 years. It used to be one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments during its time.

Mining in Wieliczka produced a total of some 200 kilometers of passages as well as 2,040 caverns of varied size. The tourist route starts 64 m deep and ends 135 m below the earth's surface, where the world's biggest museum of mining is located with the unique centuries-old equipment among its exhibits. Still below, some 210 m deep, there is a sanatorium for those suffering from asthma and allergy. Occasionally concerts and other events take place in the Wieliczka mine’s biggest chambers. Amazing indeed!

Oświęcim, POLAND

Today was a moving day (no earthquakes here) at the German death camps of Auschwitz. This is some place we all must see, and try to understand why this all happened while the world looked on.
Its been several hours since my visit, and I can't seem to stop thinking about Auschwitz. If today's experience didn't shake me...then nothing will. It sure did!

If you don't recall your history class, let me refresh your memory:

The German forces, occupying Poland during WWII, established a concentration camp on the outskirts of the town of Oświęcim in 1940. The Germans called it Auschwitz. Over the next few years it was expanded into three main camps: Auschwitz I, Auschwitz II-Birkenau, and Auschwitz III-Monowitz and more than 40 sub-camps. The first people to be brought to Auschwitz as prisoners and murdered here were Poles (Polish people). They were followed by Soviet prisoners of war, Gypsies and deportees (the latter included convicts and homosexual people) of many other European nationalities from as far south as Greece and as far north as Norway. However, destroying the Jewish population of Europe was the main goal of the Nazis. The majority of people sent to Auschwitz were Jewish (Hungary had the highest number: 400,000+ people). Being transported over several days from far away destinations like cattle in goods trains, the deportees were greeted with a "nice shower waiting". The fit were sent to hard labour in nearby German factories, and the Jews and the weak (including women and children) were immediately sent to be executed. After forced to undress, up to 2000 people at a time were shoved into the underground "showers" (gas chambers) at which time poisonous gas (Zyklon-B) were pumped in. It took less than 20 minutes for people to die - men, women, and children. After death, bodies were dragged out and stripped of any valuable items such as hair (used in German textile industry), gold teeth, and artificial limbs. The bodies were then incinerated in nearby ovens. Between one million and 1.5 million people lost their lives here in Auschwitz between 1940 and 1945. When the camps were liberated by the Soviet Red Army in January 27, 1945, they only found about 10,000 people still alive - most dying of starvation.

As I was walking around the grounds, inside the rows of houses where people were packed to capacity, and inside the gas chambers, I could not help but to think that while this was 60 years into the history, these inhumane atrocities continued since Auschwitz and they are still happening...and likely will continue far into the future. While the world looked on, millions of people have been brutally and senselessly killed since Auschwitz. Do you remember .....:

- 1965 to 1973, Vietnam: a grand total of between 4 and 5 million casualties. This does not included casualties in neighboring Cambodia and Laos.
- 1992 to 1995, Bosnia: over 97,200 victims of the war just in Bosnia. Total for the war in the Balkans region is well above this number and could be as high as 200,000.
- 1994 Rwanda: an estimated 800,000 people were massacred (total killed from 1959 to 1995 was 1,350,000.
- Current, Iraq: a totally unjustified invasion of Iraq has now left more than 70,000 Iraqi's dead. An invasion by the self-proclaimed "leader of the free world".....in its quest to secure oil.
- 2003 to current, Darfur region of Sudan: an estimated 200,000 people killed and 2.5 million left homeless

Other atrocities are those in Ethiopia (1962-92): 1,400,000, Nigeria (1966-70): 1,000,000, Bangladesh (1971): 1,250,000, Cambodia, Khmer Rouge (1975-1978): 1,650,000, Mozambique (1975-1992): 1,000,000, Afghanistan (1979-2001): 1,800,000, Iran-Iraq War (1980-88): 1,000,000 and the list goes on and on.

The above is by all means not a comprehensive list of atrocities since Auschwitz. History is history and nothing can be changed. What we can change is to open our eyes and not allow a repetition of history in modern times. I can only wonder what places and numbers will be added to this list over the next 60 years! Its almost unimaginable - and scary!

Krakow, POLAND

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Late arrival from Ukraine as our train was delayed by two hours after custom inspectors at the Ukraine / Poland border uncovered several bags of smuggled cigarettes in MY couchette! Fortunately I wasn't on their suspect list and they only asked me to leave the couchette so they could unscrew the ceiling panels and carry out about 50 cartons of Ukrainian-made cigarettes. Wow! I'm safely in Poland.

Krakov is the "new Prague" they say...due to less tourists...hmmm...outdated statement. Now they say "Lviv is the 'new Krakow'". The massage is: If you don't come and see these places soon, they will be like Prague....overrun with tourists!

Nevertheless, Krakow is not yet like Prague and has a lot of authentic Poland to offer. Fact is: For centuries Krakow was the capital of Poland, the seat of kings and still draws great scholars and artists from the whole world. The old buildings were not destroyed by WWII, and Auschwitz (where 1.5 million people were executed by the Nazis) is just a short drive from Krakow.

Lviv, UKRAINE

An 8-hour overnight train dropped me off in the town of Lviv (Lvov) in the far west of the Ukraine.

Narrow medieval streets paved with stones (some very uneven!), architectural decoration done in different styles – all preserved in its original form. Being part of the Austra-Hungarian Empire, then Poland and most recently the USSR, all contributed to the formation of the city’s unique development. In spite of all the ups and downs in history (more downs than ups), the city has not lost its true Ukrainian spirit, and it’s delicate architecture has not suffered from the monstrosities of the Soviet era. The central part of the city is included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage. The Russian (read: communist) influence of the past is totally visible - mostly in the nature of the older generation of people.

Went outside town to the smaller villages and farming communities....so pleasant indeed.

I am splurging and staying in a old historical hotel...the room (excluding the bathroom) is half the size of my entire apartment in Hong Kong...and the ceilings twice the height...the walls are three times as thick...I even have to pass through two sets of huge double-doors (I guess to shut out any noise). The balcony stately overlooks the cobble stone path down below...and best of all....I even have my own piano! I guess this suite used to be enjoyed by the old Russian Comrades, KGB spies, and other people high up in the USSR ranks. Lovely ol' Lviv!

If you haven't noticed....I am raving over the Ukraine! Kiev is a delight...and so is Lviv and surrounding places. Those who know, say that Lviv will be the next Krakow and Prague. You bet~! Get to Lviv before its too late!

Kiev, UKRAINE

Kyiv (also spelled "Kiev"), is the bustling capital of the Ukraine with close to 3 million people located along the banks of the Dnipro River. The city of Kyiv was destroyed in 1240 by Mongol invaders. Once a powerful force on the European scene, Ukraine's fate in modern times has been decided in far-off capitals. As a result, modern Ukrainian history, for the most part, has been defined by foreign occupation....Russia most notably. Kyiv suffered severely during World War II, and many architectural and art treasures were destroyed. Earlier in the 1930's the Soviet authorities (mainly under Stalin) systematically destroyed many churches and other places of worship. Thousands of Jews were also executed in the city. In April 1986, the nuclear reactor at nearby Chernobyl exploded....just over 100km north of Kyiv. On August 24, 1991, after the aborted coup in Moscow, Ukraine proclaimed its independence from the former USSR.

When walking around in Kiev, I felt like I'm in Russia...its so similar its hard to spot the differences. Its a great city once you figured out how to get the people to smile, and particularly service workers not to be outwardly rude to you. People don't even want to try to speak English and when you say anything in English, many, but by no means all, would shove you off. I have met incredibly rude and grumpy people, but I have also met incredibly nice and helpful people. Whatever, among the most beautiful people in the world walk the streets of Kyiv. While salaries are low, people spend a great amount of money on their appearance and wear fairly fashionable and new clothes. No signs of poverty on the streets. Lots of signs of people who drank too much...and similarly to Russia, many many people walk the streets with a bottle of beer in the hand. Beer, wine, and spirits (particularly Vodka) is very cheap.

All written language is in Cyrillic with hardly any Latin writing....which makes it a real challenge to get around.

Many beautiful Orthodox Churches, museums, and opera/symphony halls. I have seen Carmen (ballet) in the National Opera House, and the Ukrainian Symphony Orchestra (with famous Ukrainian violinist Olga Rivnyak) in the National Philharmonic Hall . What an experience. Last night was Elton John's free Aids benefit concert in the Orange Square (where the Orange Revolution broke out)...with masses of fans turning up. As I have seen Sir Elton already 5 times (twice in the past 2 years), I decided to offer my spot to a Ukrainian. I spent the evening in the suburbs with the local folks.

One of the most bizarre places I have ever visited is the underground cave monastery next to the river. Founded during the times of Kievan Rus' (1051 A.D.), the monastery has remained a major center of Orthodox Christianity in the Slavic world. In the underground passages, people come to worship the "imperishable relics of the most holy monks" displayed in coffins along the walls. There are dozens of mummies in the "Lavra catacombs". People walk with candles, kiss the feet of the mummies, and pray out loud. The mummies are dressed up in cloth, but many have one or two (black and dry) hands sticking out of the cloth. It sure was a moving experience to walk with the locals as they worship these holy mummies.

Kyiv, a truly wonderful experience.

After 4 days here, I am sad to leave tonight to the far west of Ukraine (town of Lviv), from where I will cross into Poland two days later.

Chişinău, MOLDOVA

Formerly known as Kishinev under Soviet rule, Moldova gained back it independence from the USSR in 1991. Chişinău has many sad tales to tell...from being nearly completely destroyed in the Second World War, to the dark days under Soviet occupation.

I'm not exactly sure where to place Moldova, or Chişinău particularly, in my mind - it has an Eastern European flavour yet I could swear I am in Russia. Moldavans speak a Romanian dialect and before Russian occupation it was part of Romania (well, on and through its history). Most writing is in cyrillic but more often these days people write in the latin form. The people look Russian to me and so does the buildings. Ethnic Moldavans account for 67% of the population, while 14% are Russian, 8% Ukrainian, 5% Romanians, and the rest are Bulgarians, and other minorities. People are happy and beautiful....the new generation speaks some (limited) English while the older people can't utter a single English word!

Rolls of toilet paper have no hole inside...guess the last person to empty the roll has a q-tip to clear the ears!

Yesterday took a brave trip up north to visit the cave monastery. Got on a bumpy bus which dropped me off in the middle of nowhere, pointing in a western direction where I should hike to the monastery. As I got off the bus, I was rudely met by a thunder storm but immediately got scooped up by an old man in an even older Russian box-car (the Zaporozhec). I made a quick deal with him to drive me to the monastery and back (about 20km). Spent some time with the resident monks in this amazing 13th century cave monastery....what a life they live...just not for me.

And after three days here in Moldova....I'm hopping on the Moscow-bound train tonight for the 17 hour trip to Kiev, Ukraine. I enjoyed Moldova...and what I enjoyed most....the wonderful affordable cuisine, and the excellent (and very affordable) wines.

Will write again from Kiev, Ukraine.

Iaşi, ROMANIA

The town of Iaşi (pronounced as "Yash") is in the far north east of Romania, in the region of Moldovia (not the Republic of Moldova...which comes next after crossing the border tomorrow). It was the capital of Moldovia from the 16th century until 1861 and of Romania (Kingdom of Romania) between 1916-1918 during WW1.

Couple of interesting spots...but mostly a working city, and packed with university students, lively bars and restaurants and lots of beautiful Romanian people. Tomorrow I am crossing the border into Moldova.

Suceava, ROMANIA

Suceava belongs to the Southern Bucovina region of Romania, and this is my base for exploring the many lovely painted monasteries.

The (10 odd) 500-year old painted churches/monasteries of southern Bucovina are among the great artistic monuments of Europe. They have been recognized to be unique in the world since 1975 and in 1993 they were collectively designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Its amazing to see the detailed painting both on the inside and outside with colours so vibrant it looks like they were painted just yesterday. I visited the Big Four - Humor Monastery (1530), Voronet (1488), Moldovita (1532), Sucevita Monastery (1585)

Many people, especially the farmers, still rely on their horses - for their horse-power. Crossing the Carpathian Mountains mountains from Cluj to Suceava was beautiful with lots of farmers (men and women, old and young), tending to their lands with their - horse-power. Around towns and villages, many families only transportation is their horse drawn carts.

A truly beautiful area with rolling hills, farmlands, old churches, monasteries, and mostly friendly people. Oh, and....good food and good wine. The Romanian wines available locally are superb, unlike the imported Romanian wines I have had in my home towns.

I'm heading further west towards the border tomorrow, and Monday I'll be crossing into the Republic of Moldova.

Cluj-Napoca, ROMANIA

Cluj, as the locals refer to this pretty university town, is only one letter away from Club...and apparently there are some nifty clubs around town where hordes of students entertain themselves on weekends. Enroute from Oradea, I shared the train cabin with a beautiful female psychology student who reminded me so much of my past love - Susan Warren, from Atlanta. What a wonderful woman (both)! I thought for a moment that I may fall in love with her...but then the train journey came to an end and our paths went in opposite directions.....

Pretty town for sure, and lots of pretty people too. Awesome buildings - though so typical of Romania (and to some extent across the former Soviet States) - the buildings are falling apart. Minimal, if any, maintenance to such stately beautiful buildings is such a shame. Ripe and cheap cherries abound, excellent local cuisine...and yeah...the beer and wine is good too. Ah I just love Romania.

Tomorrow I'm going further west across the high Carpathian Mountains - which is the eastern wing of the great Central Mountain System of Europe. Next stop will be a farming community outside the town of Suceava from where I'll explore the numerous painted monasteries in the region. The farm, I am told, are loaded with "happy hens laying happy eggs"...so the omelette will be happy as I happily munch it down with fresh farm milk...I guess coming from happy cows!

Oradea, ROMANIA

I am back in Romania, one of my favourite countries! When I started my travels in Greece, more than two years ago, I went from Greece to Bulgaria and then through Romania...and when I left Romania into Hungary, I promised myself to be back ASAP. This time I am spending 6-7 days from eastern Transylvania (northern Romania) to the western Romanian province of Moldovia which is known for it spectacular mountains and its colourful painted monasteries.

I'm in the town called Oradeo...and its very colourful - colourful buildings and a few colourful Gypsies. However, Romania is not just Gypsies (in fact, they are only 2% of the population). One young Romanian man who speaks English very well (English is a rarity here), explained to me: "....The Gypsies are a shame to our country. Let me warn you...do not even speak to these people". Well...I have tried in the past and it wasnt easy to communicate with the Gypsies...and asking permission for a photo has always been declined.

The food is excellent...and the wine...well, better than 10 years ago!

After two days in Oradea...and I'll be off to Cluj-Napoca.

Budapest, HUNGARY

Budapest....got to be one of my favourite world-cities!

It scores high on most of my criteria...food is excellent, the wine is acceptable.....oh, Bikavér from the Eger area is awesome. Remember two years ago when I was traveling in this area I visited a couple of wineries with their cellars carved out in the hillside south the village of Eger....the "The Valley of the Nice Women" as it is referred to. I met up with the some wine-makers and tasted lots of wines...mostly for free. Bikavér (also referred to as "Bull's Blood of Eger") to me tastes very similar to Argentina's Malbec from the Mendoza area in northern Argentina. Anyhow....Budapest scores high on many of my criteria....though I know I missed the best years....10-15 years ago. By now too many tourists discovered this gem of a city.

Next (in a few days)....probably will slightly divert from my schedule and instead of going straight to Ukraine....I'll spend a few days in the Transylvania region of northern Romania....I do have a love affair with Romania! Never been to the Transylvania area so I look forward to it. Will be crossing the Carpathian mountains before getting into Moldova.

TONIGHT...SUNDAY...MY LAST NIGHT HERE
...and what a way to say farewell to Budapest...than to see Umberto Giordano's André Chénier at the famous Budapest Opera House (photo link to http://www.historicaltextarchive.com/). Andrea Chénier is an opera in four acts by Umberto Giordano to an Italian libretto by Luigi Illica, based on the life of the French poet André Chénier (1762-1794). Hmmm...I think André Chénier is now my favourite opera. When I was in Tirana, Albania, I saw Giuseppe Verdi's La traviata at the Albanian State Opera House...was excellent!!! Reminder...the inaugural concert here at the Budapest Opera House was back in 1884. Two years ago I saw Tchaikovsky's Overture in F major here....a 100-piece orchestra and later joined by a 100-member choir dressed in black....was amaaaaaazing!