Saturday, June 16, 2007

Kiev, UKRAINE

Kyiv (also spelled "Kiev"), is the bustling capital of the Ukraine with close to 3 million people located along the banks of the Dnipro River. The city of Kyiv was destroyed in 1240 by Mongol invaders. Once a powerful force on the European scene, Ukraine's fate in modern times has been decided in far-off capitals. As a result, modern Ukrainian history, for the most part, has been defined by foreign occupation....Russia most notably. Kyiv suffered severely during World War II, and many architectural and art treasures were destroyed. Earlier in the 1930's the Soviet authorities (mainly under Stalin) systematically destroyed many churches and other places of worship. Thousands of Jews were also executed in the city. In April 1986, the nuclear reactor at nearby Chernobyl exploded....just over 100km north of Kyiv. On August 24, 1991, after the aborted coup in Moscow, Ukraine proclaimed its independence from the former USSR.

When walking around in Kiev, I felt like I'm in Russia...its so similar its hard to spot the differences. Its a great city once you figured out how to get the people to smile, and particularly service workers not to be outwardly rude to you. People don't even want to try to speak English and when you say anything in English, many, but by no means all, would shove you off. I have met incredibly rude and grumpy people, but I have also met incredibly nice and helpful people. Whatever, among the most beautiful people in the world walk the streets of Kyiv. While salaries are low, people spend a great amount of money on their appearance and wear fairly fashionable and new clothes. No signs of poverty on the streets. Lots of signs of people who drank too much...and similarly to Russia, many many people walk the streets with a bottle of beer in the hand. Beer, wine, and spirits (particularly Vodka) is very cheap.

All written language is in Cyrillic with hardly any Latin writing....which makes it a real challenge to get around.

Many beautiful Orthodox Churches, museums, and opera/symphony halls. I have seen Carmen (ballet) in the National Opera House, and the Ukrainian Symphony Orchestra (with famous Ukrainian violinist Olga Rivnyak) in the National Philharmonic Hall . What an experience. Last night was Elton John's free Aids benefit concert in the Orange Square (where the Orange Revolution broke out)...with masses of fans turning up. As I have seen Sir Elton already 5 times (twice in the past 2 years), I decided to offer my spot to a Ukrainian. I spent the evening in the suburbs with the local folks.

One of the most bizarre places I have ever visited is the underground cave monastery next to the river. Founded during the times of Kievan Rus' (1051 A.D.), the monastery has remained a major center of Orthodox Christianity in the Slavic world. In the underground passages, people come to worship the "imperishable relics of the most holy monks" displayed in coffins along the walls. There are dozens of mummies in the "Lavra catacombs". People walk with candles, kiss the feet of the mummies, and pray out loud. The mummies are dressed up in cloth, but many have one or two (black and dry) hands sticking out of the cloth. It sure was a moving experience to walk with the locals as they worship these holy mummies.

Kyiv, a truly wonderful experience.

After 4 days here, I am sad to leave tonight to the far west of Ukraine (town of Lviv), from where I will cross into Poland two days later.

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