Chişinău, MOLDOVA

Formerly known as Kishinev under Soviet rule, Moldova gained back it independence from the USSR in 1991. Chişinău has many sad tales to tell...from being nearly completely destroyed in the Second World War, to the dark days under Soviet occupation.

I'm not exactly sure where to place Moldova, or Chişinău particularly, in my mind - it has an Eastern European flavour yet I could swear I am in Russia. Moldavans speak a Romanian dialect and before Russian occupation it was part of Romania (well, on and through its history). Most writing is in cyrillic but more often these days people write in the latin form. The people look Russian to me and so does the buildings. Ethnic Moldavans account for 67% of the population, while 14% are Russian, 8% Ukrainian, 5% Romanians, and the rest are Bulgarians, and other minorities. People are happy and beautiful....the new generation speaks some (limited) English while the older people can't utter a single English word!

Rolls of toilet paper have no hole inside...guess the last person to empty the roll has a q-tip to clear the ears!

Yesterday took a brave trip up north to visit the cave monastery. Got on a bumpy bus which dropped me off in the middle of nowhere, pointing in a western direction where I should hike to the monastery. As I got off the bus, I was rudely met by a thunder storm but immediately got scooped up by an old man in an even older Russian box-car (the Zaporozhec). I made a quick deal with him to drive me to the monastery and back (about 20km). Spent some time with the resident monks in this amazing 13th century cave monastery....what a life they live...just not for me.

And after three days here in Moldova....I'm hopping on the Moscow-bound train tonight for the 17 hour trip to Kiev, Ukraine. I enjoyed Moldova...and what I enjoyed most....the wonderful affordable cuisine, and the excellent (and very affordable) wines.

Will write again from Kiev, Ukraine.