Ljubljana, SLOVENIA

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia and the largest city with a mere 300,000 inhabitants. Ljubljana's castle overlooks the Old Town which is packed with narrow cobblestone streets, galleries and boutiques. Architecture is among the best I have seen recently with lots of Baroque, Renaissance, and especially Art Nouveau styles.

Nice town...nice people, nice food (burek...lots of burek...one of the favourite foods here in the Balkans....pastry with meat inside), good beer and wine, more nice food, and lots and lots of cheap fresh cherries, strawberries and peaches! Easy to find a cherry tree, and camp out for a while.

Tomorrow crossing into Hungary.

Bled, SLOVENIA

I'm in the northwestern region of Upper Carniola of Slovenia, in the pretty little town called Bled...built at one end of the glacial lake Bled. A small island in the middle of the lake is home to a beautiful old church and perched on a rock overlooking the lake is the iconic Bled Castle. It's like a mix of Lake Tahoe (California) and the Lofoten Islands (Norway). Totally awesome....turquoise lake surrounded by the Julian Alps...covered in snow most of the time...but not right now as we're having some balmy weather up here.

Staying in a private home with the mountains out my back patio. Mountain biking the whole day today in the beautiful Triglav National Park...and cycled through several of the nearby villages....and eating lots of fresh cherries!

Zagreb, CROATIA

I'm in and around Zagreb, capital city of Croatia. Quite a pleasant city and interesting surroundings. Lots to see and do. However, not a lot to write about, so I guess.....I'll just move on tomorrow to another country. I have seen a lot of Croatia (particularly along the Adriatic coast), I ate some gooood Croatian food, fruits (especially cherries and strawberries), and drank great Croatian beers and wines.

Talking about cherries....its cherry season. Cherries everywhere and dirt cheap. In Belgrade I found a cherry tree in the zoo...and stuffed myself with free cherries ) and mulberries). On the train from Belgrade to Zagreb, I met a very nice Customs Officer who ordered the older man next to me to give me half his bag of cherries. The older man smiled and gave me half his cherries. The Customs Officer then invited himself and me to eat the rest of the man's cherries. I felt so guilty by now and asked the Customs guy if cherries are not allowed across the border - why are we eating all the cherries..."No problem with cherries across the border", he said. "We eat it because they are so good". The old man smiled again and joined in as we finished off the rest of his cherries.

Ok....I'm off to Slovenia...the last of the former Yugoslav provinces left to do. Adios!

What we're doing to our animals? (reporting from Belgrade, Serbia)

It is sickening and horrifying what people around the world do to animals. I have seen the abuse so much, and I'm sure you have seen it - and may even be guilty yourself of denying animals their rights to freedom.

I always love to visit zoo's as to me this reflects on the hearts of the people of that city and country. If people allow their local zoo to continue operate as an animal jail, and they dont voice their disgust at it, it tells me alot of the people of that city.

Some of the worst offending zoo's in the world are visited ever day by so-called "animal lovers", These people walk by these wonderful animals in their small cages, yet nobody sees the signs of frustration in these animals: the sadness in their eyes and their monotenous behaviour. Are we blind!

The San Jose Zoo (Costa Rica), Split Zoo (Croatia), Belgrade Zoo (Serbia), Moscow Zoo (Russia) are among the biggest offenders. Look at the animals around you, in your zoo if you have. Speak out and do something!

Start by looking at this website: http://www.animalsmatter.org/ and http://www.peta.org/actioncenter/report-cruelty.asp

Belgrade, SERBIA

Belgrade or Beograd, Београд (in Cyrillic)...the grandeur capital of the former (huge) Yugoslavia...and now the tiny Serbia. From a distance...as you approach the city...its probablyone of the ugliest cities I have I seen. Sorry to say. Typical of the ex-Soviet dark depressing architecture. However, once you're inside the city, its a very bustling place! Truly grandeur buildings (not bombed by NATO), parks, wide streets, bridges over the Sava and Danube rivers. Lots of beautiful Orthodox Churches, Cathedrals, and other awesome buildings. Not a lot of evidence of the war in the early 90's...only a couple of bombed government buildings still show the signs.

This was the base of ex-president of Yugoslavia (1997 to 2000) and war criminal, Slobodan Milošević. Read the history text about this $%^##$^.

Quite a nice city. Good thing Milošević is gone forever!

The best and the worst places to stay around the world

I was just talking to a few other world travelers last night about the best and the worst places to stay around the world. I'll later publish more about the good, bad and the ugly, but for now, here's my top of the list based more on how good/bad the owners/management is rather than quality of the venue.

THE GOOD
1. Hostel Forestal, Santiago, Chile
2. Tirana Backpackers Hostel, Tirana, Albania
3. Hostal del Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina
4. Many of the private homes in which I stayed mainly in Eastern Europe and Russia

THE BAD
1. By far the worst management: Metropolis Hostel, Istanbul, Turkey
2. French owner of small hotel in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Wonderful Thai staff so I won't reveal the name of the establishment.
3. Actually very few establishments I have come across with truly bad management.

More on my "Hotels around the world review"...later

Sarajevo, BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA

Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984. This famously picturesque city of 388,000 people, now the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, used to be part of Yugoslavia. When Bosnia's people voted in a referendum in 1991 to call for Independence from Yugoslavia, the local Bosnian Serbs (with support of the Yugoslav army in Belgrade) started their aggression against the people of Sarajevo.

The Serbs' 1,400-day choke-hold on Sarajevo during the 1992-1995 war cut Sarajevo off from the rest of Bosnia, and the rest of the world. During the siege, the UN looked on and did little more than talking. Under the eyes of the international media and the world, more than 10,600 Sarajevans, including 1,060 children, died from snipers bullets or exploding shells. By the end of the war, 200,000 Bosnians were dead and two million displaced or refugees.

Its been 12 years since the end of the war in Sarajevo. Little evidence is left as the people rebuilt their city in record time. Only cemeteries that dot the hills around the valley of Sarajevo are the silent reminders of the hell this lovely city went through.

The food is good...I even like the national dish, cevapcici, which is a stubby lamb sausage served with inside a thick, greasy pita, topped with fresh chopped onions. The national beer, Sarajevsko, is great, and even their wines are excellent.

Mostar, BOSNIA HERZEGOVINA

As I entered the graveyard next to an old and weary mosque, I didn't notice anything unusual. Each grave has a different design, have lots of flowers, and are being well maintained. Also - all graves look fairly new. In fact, they are all exactly 14 years old. Most indicate birth dates around the 60's and 70's but all show year of death as 1993. This is Mostar and 1993 was the deadliest year in the pan-Balkan war.

During the Serbian aggression, the civil war killed more than 3,000 people in Mostar alone and another 1,500 people are still unaccounted for. After the UN and its forces proved once again total incompetence to stop this bitter war, NATO helped out. By the time of final "liberation" two mass graves were found with more than a hundred bodies of murdered civilians.

For more than 400 years the sandstone Stari Most bridge was considered an architectural marvel. Mimar Hajruddin, a pupil of the famous architect Sinan (considered as the father of classic Ottoman architecture), constructed the bridge in 1566. The city’s young men saw it as a rite of passage to jump off the bridge into the Neretva River below. However, during the civil war these young men who’d dived off the bridge together began to turn on each other. Serbians against Croats and Muslims, and Croats against Muslims. Croat soldiers destroyed the famous bridge at the height of shelling. It was rebuilt with the help of foreign money and reopened in 2004. Now that the (new) bridge has started to attract tourists, these boys (or the new generation) don't dive for sweets and clappy hands any longer! They want hard cash and most of the time just parade up and down the bridge hoping to solicit enough money from the tourists to make the jump.

Burnout and partly destroyed buildings are everywhere in town. This is still a very charming town with an ancient Ottoman residential area with cobbled stone paving and stately mansions. However, not a lot of reconstruction has taken place since the war, 14 years ago. Lots of homes, apartment buildings, government buildings, and places of worship still bear the scars of mortar shelling. You just cant help to wonder how these people could have lived through the war - and survived it.

This a brief summary of the devastation in Mostar:

All churches and almost all mosques were destroyed. The government, administrative and judicial buildings were either severely damaged or destroyed. The entire housing developments of the old city structure were brutally destroyed, while the new urban structure sustained severe damage. The industrial zone around the city was systematically destroyed, set on fire and looted. The entire infrastructure, communication and social networks were terribly damaged and/or destroyed. The entire city horticulture was devastated, the woods were burnt down, and the city parks turned into cemeteries.

I am staying with a lovely old lady and have a really nice room. However, the buildings obviously suffered greatly during the war and subsequently have been decorated all over with graffiti! Great atmosphere for two or three days here in Mostar

Photos below...

Make sure to scroll down to see photos of Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, and more. Also see the recent photos posted of Jordan, Iran, Bahrain etc here

Talking about Lebanon....in my Lebanon post I was saying that it looked like war was about to break out at any time...especially in Beirut. Well...there you have it! In yesterday's news: War in Tripoli (north of Beirut) and some shelling in Beirut. Glad I got out in time. I feel for those people in Lebanon who have to go through fighting again and again. May peace prevail!

Split, CROATIA

A 9-hour boat ride along the Dalmatian coast of Croatia brought me to the city called....Split. Its a city with a 1700-year old tradition, has a variety of archaeological, historical and cultural monuments - among which the well-known Palace of Diocletian, inscribed into the UNESCO World Heritage List. Certainly worth a visit...and as with Dobrovnik, its easy to stay with the locals who are all too happy to offer a cosy room. People are nice and the food and beer are delicious! I should add that typical of Eastern Europe, people in the service industry is generally grumpy and not geared towards customer satisfaction.

Dobrovnik, CROATIA

Dobrovnik is probably the best preserved old town I have ever seen. The old town was completed in the 13th century and remains virtually unchanged to the present day....except for...the people. Ages ago (or maybe just 10 or 20 years ago), this old town must have been a bee-nest of local Croatian fishermen and tradesmen. Today, unfortunately, its flooded with groups tours, independent travelers, and backpackers. This is fortunately still early in the season....but don't bother coming here in peak season (July and August).

I spent most of my time hiking in the nearby hills with great views of the old town and the nearby islands...and I also slowly walked the 2km of fortress walls surrounding the old town.

Kotor, MONTENEGRO

Kotor...they say is a city of traders and famous sailors, with many stories to tell. Well, when you see this little cosy old town you could believe that there must be many stories to tell. Nestled in one of the many bays along southern Europe's biggest fjord, lies the walled city of Kotor.

Its a very well preserved city typical of the Middle Ages, built between the 12th and 14th century. Through the city the buildings are criss-crossed with narrow streets, squares, churches and cathedrals.

I spent most of my time high up in the hills hiking as far and as high as I could. The views over the fjord and the old city is....magnificent!!

Also spent time around Sveti-Stefan in Montenegro. (Picture to the right).

Ulcinj, MONTENEGRO

From northern Albania I crossed into Montenegro this afternoon. This is the world youngest nation! On June 28, 2006, Montenegro declared independence from Serbia and became the 192nd member state of the United Nations. The small town of Ulcinj is at the southern tip of Montenegro, just north of the Albanian border. Ulcinj is one of the oldest towns of the Adriatic coast - and talking about coast - the coastline here is quite impressive.

Next stop is Kotor, Montenegro.

Two years on the road

Today is my two years on the road anniversary. While I made a few pit stops in my hometown of Hong Kong over these two years, I spent about 96% of the time traveling. More than 80,000 photos...and who can guess how many kilometers I have traveled, and hiked, and climbed. I could never quantify the wealth of experiences I have accumulated. Life is wonderful!

Tirana, ALBANIA

It was a mere 16 years since the brutal and depressing rule (first USSR aligned and later China) of Communist Party leader Enver Hoxha came to an end in Albania (well...he actually died earlier than communism here, buried in the Hero's acre in 1985...and in 2001 his remains were dug up and re-buried in a small grave in the common graveyard at the other end of town).

Albania, and capital city Tirana, has been on a major path of transformation since then. Yip....I am 16 years too late to witness the real old communist Albania. Fortunately, around town still lots of reminders of the old days. The Tirana of 2007 is quite a modern town, and frankly....quite a lovely and vibrant town. Lots of friendly Albanians, few visible tourists, hardly any English spoken, lots of little farmer's markets, cheap and fresh produce, lots of neighborhood bars with beer on tap, grilled sausages, and local Albanian cuisine. Very affordable indeed. In all, a real nice town!!

Though small and rather neglected, and in an off the beaten track area....at least, Mother Theresa got her statue! (photo at right)

I'll be slowly working my way up north towards Montenegro and Croatia along the Adriatic coast.

İstanbul. TURKEY

Lots to see and do in Istanbul but I should have been here 10 or 20 years ago. The city ıs overrun wpth group tours and hordes of tourists - just not my cup of tea. The locals here have one thing in mind and that ıs to get as much money as possible out of the tourists...ok not everybody. Istanbul and Turkey in general ıs not a cheap destination any longer! Enough seedy and aggressive characters to leave me cold. İ have shortened my planned 4-5 days in Istanbul to only two days. Tomorrow I fly over to Tirana in Albania.

Ephesus, TURKEY

Some people say "Ephesus is the best preserved classical city of the Eastern Mediterranean, and among the best places in the world enabling one to genuinely 'soak in' the atmosphere of Roman times". However, over the past two months I have seen so many wonderful ancient cities in Yemen, Iran, Jordan, Lebanon, and Syria....that I am hardly impresses with Ephesus.

However, standing on the grounds of Ephesus and thinking about the rich and long history of this place, one can't help but to be amazed with the stories these ruins have witnessed. To me, the few hours I spent at these ruins was indeed a moving experience. The nearby town of Selcuk is also worth spending a night. Cobbled stone lanes, small cafes....tranquility could kill you!

Enough of ruins...I'm off to Istanbul

Pamukkale, Western TURKEY

Pamukkale is one of the most extraordinary natural wonders in Turkey. The big attraction here is a vast white cliff-side with scallop-shaped basins of water and frozen waterfalls. It really looks as if it's made out of snow or cloud or balls of cotton. The scientific explanation is that hot thermal springs pouring down the hillside deposit calcium carbonate, which solidifies as travertine.

Right next to Pamukkale lies the ancient ruins of Hierapolis. The city was founded in 190 B.C. by Eumenes II, king of Pergamon. In the 2nd and 3rd centuries, it reached the height of its development as a Roman thermal bath center. The baths are still full of hot water and you can swim at a whopping tourist ripp-off fee.

Next stop is ancient city of Ephesus, west of Pamukkale.

Gorome, Cappadocia, Central TURKEY

They say....Goreme is Turkey's answer to the famous Grand Canyon in the USA. Well...not exactly...but more stunning in a different way. Similarly to Petra, Jordan, you're not sure who should get the prize for the hard work...nature or man. Well, again, I would give a shared award to both.

Goreme and the surrounding area is a geological wonderland where you will find the most amazing and indescribably beautiful landscapes in the world. Its a perfect example of nature playing sculptor!! Millions of years ago, the region was covered with lava. Through the years, the unique landscape evolved from the erosion of the ash sediments by wind, sun, rain and snow, sculpting the land into countless, strangely-shaped capped columns, pyramids and cones known as 'fairy chimneys'. Man then came along and carved houses into these rocks. And that's not all. Man also went ahead and carved a city of up to eight levels deep under the earth (often just shaping and extending the underground natural grotto's into a huge underground city.

Most amazıng ıs the Underground City of Kaymakli which was cut out of volcanic tufa as deep as 300 feet during the period covering the 6th to the 10th centuries. It is possible to descend through eight floor levels of the city by means of a labyrinth of tunnels.

Cappadocia wınes, good food, an amazing natural wonderful, cosy guesthouses - what more do you want!

Aleppo, Northern SYRİA

Aleppo ıs the second capital of Syria and 350 km north of Damascus and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in history. Abraham is said to have camped on the acropolis which long before his time, served as the foundation of a fortress where the Aleppo citadel is standing now. Apparently he milked his grey cow there, hence Aleppo's name "Halab Al-Shahba". Amazing!

Aleppo is famous for its ancient citadel with medieval fortress, the great Umayyad mosque, and the extraordinary souqs (bazaars) with every conceivable kind of article for sale. I guess the main reason for my visit to Aleppo was to experience this amazing souq and to explore the ancient Christıan quarter with its quaint streets and restaurants.

From Aleppo I wıll cross over to southern Turkey.

Hama, SYRIA

From Palmyra I went over to Crac de Chevalliers, near the Lebanon border.

Crac des Chevaliers is 65km west of the town of Homs and is the greatest of all Crusader castles, and one of the greatest sights of Syria. The Crac des Chevaliers was described by T E Lawrence as ‘perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world’. Was amazing indeed.

My next stop was further north to the town of Hama. The main reason why I'm here: the great norias (waterwheels)!! Originating in Byzantine times, the oldest surviving wheels date from the 13th century. The norias, which all have names, were used to raise water from the river into aqueducts for agricultural use. The purpose of the wheels nowadays is purely decorative and of historical interest....but still amazing to see (and hear) as they slowly lift buckets of water from the river below into the high aqueducts.

Another reason for coming to this area: The beehive houses which are dotting the landscape north east of Hama towards the Afghanistan border. These very traditional houses are on the edges of the Syrian desert as well as along the Euphrates river. The mudbrick (reinforced with straw) houses are used as housing and nowadays increasingly as storage - keeping things cool in the stifling heat of summer and warm in the cold of winter. People are very friendly and I got pulled into a few of these houses for tea. One of the more memorable ladıes had her face tattooed - which ıs customary among people of her generation - what a face!...and a couple of great photos.


Also went north of Hama to see the Roman ruins of Aphamea (Afimia) which is 60 km northwest of Hama. Quite a nice and interesting village among the ruines of the olf fortress with beautiful views of the surroundings.

Next...Aleppo, northern Syria...and my last stop before crossing into south eastern Turkey.

Bosra and Palmyra, southern and eastern SYRIA

From Lebanon I went back to Damascus (Syria) and then to Bosra (in southern Syria near the Jordanian border). Bosra is an ancient city dating from the 15th century BC. It showcases the oldest Islamic square minarets and a lovely old Roman theater built in the second century AD, which seats 15 thousand spectators, and is considered one of the most beautiful and well-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Bosra played a prosperous role as an important halt for pilgrims on the way to Mecca which lasted until the early 17th century.

From Bosra I headed back to Damascus, and from there I went deep into the eastern desert on the road to Baghdad, Iraq (passed the Baghdad Cafe...a very lonely but colourful cafe cum restaurant with a very sad camel waiting outside). My destination was Palmyra. Palmyra is in the heart of Syrian desert, and is often described as the "bride of the desert". Its magnificent remains tell of a heroic history during the reign of Queen Zenobia. Zenobia ruled Palmyra in a way that astonished both West and East. Without telling much here.....let me just say...she was quite a woman!! The "Oasis", as it is sometimes called, is located near a hot-water spring called Afqa, which made it an ideal halt for caravans moving between Iraq and Al-Sham (present day Syria, Lebanon, Holy Land and Jordan), trading in silk from China to the Mediterranean. Spending a full day in Palmyra was just great...walking around the old ruins, huge colonnades, the amazingly well preserved Bel Temple, Arch of Triumph, the Amphitheater, the Baths, the Straight Street, the Congress Council and the Cemeteries...really an amazing place...and tough to imagine what life would have been like here under the reign of Queen Zenobia (by the way...she claimed to be the daughter of Cleopatra...no wonder!)