Budapest, Hungary -- Final Day

Yesterday was the final of my 8 days in Budapest and area. I ended off this pleasant stay by going to see the Budapest Philharmonic Orchestra at the Budapest Opera House. The Opera House was built in 1835 and grand architecture indeed. The 96 piece orchestra, directed by János KOVÁCS, created a totally unforgettable evening by playing the Flute Concerto in G major, K. 313, of Mozart -- one of his very few flute compositions. Superbly done by soloist Szabó Rozália!!!  The Symphony No. 2. in C minor of G. Mahler was supported by the 102 singers of the Choir of the Hungarian State Opera House. This was a performance I could never ever forget.

 

Budapest, farewell. I had enough Hungarian sausages, wine, beer, and lots of good food. My most memorable moments will be the Philharmonic Orchestra performance and the day out exploring the small wineries towards the north east of Budapest. Oh....and the walks along the Danube river!

 

I'm heading up north later today to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia.

Budapest, HUNGARY

Another beautiful sunny day here in Budapest. What a nice city. The worst part of Budapest....it is over-run by tourists! This is still very early in the tourist season and already flooded by German groups of old ladies and belly papas! As much as people may love Budapest....I still vote for Bulgaria and Romania as I hardly came across tourists...other than the odd fellow backpacker.

Did a couple of day trips to small towns in Hungary...most notably was the town of Eger. Eger, a 2 hours train ride to the north east of Budapest, is the center of the historical wine-producing region of North-Eastern Hungary. Its fort, which was defended by heroic warriors during European conquests of the Turks in the 16th century, offers an excellent view the beautiful old downtown. The city, with its glorious historical past, minarets and palaces has thermal baths, good food, and very good wines. The Eger red wines - such as the renowned Egri Bikavér (Bull's Blood) - are characterized by an attractive color and pleasant tannin acid content. During several years of aging in large wooden casks in the cellars, these wines become fullbodied wines rich in aroma. Just a 20 minutes walk south of the town is "The Valley of the Nice Women" with several ancient cellars carved into the rocks...where you can visit several of these cellars. I ended up in three of them. What an experience it was. These old...really old wine makers treated me so well, let me taste several wines from their vats, and then gave me a bottle of the nicest Egri Bikavér. Total bill was US$2. The third cellar did not even charge me anything as I only tasted 4 wines and then decided to take it easy...as I still had to walk back to town. These men took me deep into these cellars which must hundreds of years old, told me interesting stories, tried different wines from the old barrels.... all a very good day spent!

I'll be spending 8 days here in Budapest and area....what a lovely experience.
I'll be leaving from Budapest on Tuesday May 31st up north to Bratislava, Slovakia, for two days before heading to Prague, Czech Republic.
Till later

Brasov, Central ROMANIA

After a fine time in Bucharest, Mike and I arrived in Brasov, central Romania. Our sweetheart, Melis, decided to return home in Istanbul to prepare for her exams. We wish her luck.

Brasov is situated in the central part of Romania, 160 km north of Bucharest, Romania's capital, The town is surrounded by the snowy Carpathians, being in the middle of the country at the crossroads of the the Eastern Carpathian and the Southern Carpathians. Across the mountains to the South and East are the Wallachia and Moldavia regions, to the West the Banat region and to the North the rolling hills of Northern Transylvania.

Upon our arrival at the Brasov train station we were met by several locals offering private accommodation. It wasn't difficult to decide who to go with -- Gabriel is getting rave reviews, is listed in most travel guides, and he quickly convinced us that he will take care of us. Only a few minutes after our train pulled into the station, Gabriel handed us over to Luigi and Gigi -- an older man and his very energetic wife living right in the old part of town in a lovely high ceiling apartment. Now these two are gems!! Luigi (the old lady) talked non-stop in Romanian explaning all the sight seeing highlights of the area. It was like playing Pictionary with Mike and I speaking English, and Luigi and Gigi speaking Romanian -- and without too much effort we communicated very well.

First thing we did after the host briefing was to go climb nearby Tampan mountain (640m) for a stunning view of the historical town of Brasov. As we're in early spring, the trees are exploding in bright green colours and the mountain tops are still covered under snow.

After nice local food in the main square and several beers later, we went to bed after yet another briefing by Luigi and Gigi. Next morning befriended the two pretty Australian girls next door and set off to explore the area including the towns of Rasnov, Bran Castle (Dracula Castle) and Sinaia. Sinaia was the former summer Royal Residence (Hohenzollern Royal House), situated in the Prahova Valley about 44 km from Brasov, at the foot of the Bucegi Mountains, at an altitude ranging between 800 - 1,000 m. WOW!! What a stunning area and an even more stunning palace. Absolutely fantastic!!

After a full day of exploring it was time to say goodbye to Mike (heading for Yugoslavia) as well as to Luigi and Gigi. I hugged Luigi so hard I thought she lost her last breath! What a wonderful Romanian lady!

So there was one left...only me doing solo travel again. The 10 hour nite train ride from Brasov to Budapest (Hungary) was not too memorable as my 6 person cabin was packed with Romanians who could speak no English. The old lady across me just kept smiling as I got so excited about seeing the Gypsies on their donkey carts.

Arrived in Budapest this morning for an 8 day stay to explore this lovely place and the surrounding areas. So far the Hungarians have been good to me. While there was some bad elements at the train station, I hopped onto the underground train and easily found Mrs. Ossővan where I'll be staying in her very spacious apartment right next to the Danube River.

Its time for my first Hungarian dinner - so please excuse me'

Bucharest, ROMANIA

So it was time to leave Bulgaria....Early morning I headed for the tiny train station of Veliko Tarnovo in northern Bulgaria and as expected, the woman at the ticket counter...staring from behind the little hole with little sliding window, kept talking in Bulgarian -- me talking English...and then said "moment...wait"...so I waited with no ticket in hand while the "Istanbul-to-Bucharest" train was scheduled to pull into the station in less than 30 minutes. Later she told me in Bulgarian, which I figured out to mean that I can't buy a direct ticket to Bucharest. Have to get to Ruse at the border and then jump off to buy another ticket to Bucharest (Romania). With my new made friends -- Grant (American), Mike (American) and Melis (Turkish American), we boarded the train. At Ruse I ran to the ticket office while locomotives were switched and not long after I returned, ticket in hand, we rolled off over the Danube River into former Communist country -- Romania.

I am very impressed with Bucharest to say the least. Most amazing old buildings, wide boulevards, green parks, and quite good food. Last night went to a very stylish restaurant located in what looks like an opera house dated 1888. Top class by Romanian standards and good service, food, and Romanian musicians. After a mixed grill, salad, bottle of wine...the cost was 20 Euro per person. Good deal and a very memorable experience.

Bulgaria was excellent. So far Romania is very promising. Both are jewels ready for exploring. I'd say skip Western Europe and discover the Balkan countries!

Old Communist mentality still prevails! This afternoon a military guard rudely refused me taking a picture of the old building which houses the "European Commission of Higher Education". Must be worried that I will sabotage higher education in Romania. Generally people are at first rude here in Romania, as they are in Bulgaria. The best to change it around, is to be very friendly, smile, talk with them, and you may be lucky to get a smile back -- very lucky. Must be the hangover from the Communist days which may take a generation to blow over. Still, I am having a fantastic time!

Tomorrow Mike, Melis and I are off north to Brasov and Bran in Transylvania to hike in the hills. Grant is staying for a another few days to study the art and then heads for Moldova and Odessa. After Brasov I'm heading for Budapest (Hungary) while Mike/Melis are going to Croatia (I think that's their latest plan).

Be good!

Veliko Tarnovo, BULGARIA - Day 2

Ok, I'm still in Veliko Tarnovo...such a nice little town its hard to leave. With all the cheap wine and beer and good food...its hard to leave Bulgaria! The Zagorka beer...and Bulgarian wines...which may not yet have grown on me...but the price it right, the mood is very accommodating...and with all the sunshine...I'll order another pint or two! Just look out for the signs of PECTAUPAHT...and you know...in the Cyrillic alphabeth...that spells RESTAURANT...easy right!...not always as there are many unfamiliar characters.

The Bulgarian girls...which are really pretty by any standard...just love to show their belly buttons...and the young men, also handsome by any standard...love to wear earrings...on both sides. Very stylish people...often too stylish for me...but then again....I guest there is a little generation gap! Problem is....about 90% of these beautiful people smoke!! Smoking is so in...you'd swear is was only introduced a week ago. One day they will be very sorry!!

Kavarma...never forget Kavarma...a delicious "Earthware" dish....one of the many Earthware dishes that are so part of Bulgarian cuisine!

I'm sad so leave Bulgaria tomorrow. I have grown to love this place, its people, and most of all...yes, I started to like its wine!

Here I come Romania. First the capital city of Bucharest...and then to to mountains of Transylvania. This trip won't be easy as I was warned about long delays at both sides of the border!

To check out Veliko Tarnovo, see these pics from somebody else (mine will follow later)
http://www.pbase.com/ngruev/tirnovo

Peter

Veliko Tarnovo, BULGARIA

After a grueling 10 hour trip from the Black Sea town of Sozopol, I arrived in the northern mountain town of Veliko Tarnovo. A historical town which promises a lot of interesting ruins, cathedrals, and more. Will start exploring tomorrow. On my way to Veliko Tarnovo I had to change trains but nobody could tell me where to change trains and when I asked they all had different instructions.....all in Bulgarian of course. I got off at some small town and figured its my best hope to catch the right train in the right direction. After a 2 hour wait (while I roamed the small town and their many goats and beer drinking villagers), my train arrived for the three hour trip through the mountains and countless tunnels. At last I arrived at my destination and quickly found a hotel overlooking the river. The Internet cafe where I am right now have all state of the art screens and about 100 seats!! I'll stay here for two nights and then further north to cross the Romanian border at a town called Ruse. Next stop then will be the Romanian capital, Bucharest.
Till later!

Sozopol, Black Sea Coast, BULGARIA

Its early morning in Sozopol, about 30km south of the port city of Burgas, here on the Black Sea. And by the way...the Black Sea does NOT look black to me at all :)

The 5 hour train trip from Plovdiv was interesting. Miles and miles of rolling green hills and lots of farmland. Interesting to see how these farmers still mainly use mules and donkeys to plow their lands, and old ladies with black dresses digging in the dirt. Little villages with red tile roofs and dirty kids playing in the narrow streets. Indeed, exactly as I pictured Bulgaria in my mind. Money is a luxury here and the environment needs help. I have never seen so many abandoned old houses in my life. Looks like they don't believe in demolishing old homes.

Sozopol is a town of 5001 people (make it 5002 since I arrived) with beautiful bays and some rough waves. Houses are built against the hills overlooking the bays. Talking about "overlooking", I got a real nice room up in the nearby hill with a fantastic view over the town and bay. Could not ask for anything better...so I'll stay at least 2 nights before moving north (or maybe even south towards the Turkish border).

The food is good and cheap...the wine is...well, its cheap but not sure its good. Some locals brag that Bulgarian wine is the very best in the world...well, I first have to reprogram my taste buds and that should be done by sunset today...ready for the evening dinner in one of the many restaurants by the beach.

Bulgarian people are friendly but not very outgoing. Shy at first and you may think they don't like foreigners until you start talking to them even though hardly anybody speaks English. So, they speak Bulgarian, and I speak English...and somehow we understand each other. I'm trying to understand their nodding...I suspect our "yes" is their "no", and "no" is "yes"...so if you want to say yes...it is "neh" and you shake your head from left to right. I need some practise to get used to this. I'm also getting to understand the Cyrillic alphabet which is not that difficult to figure out. Good preparation for my upcoming days in Russia!

Oh....and in this former communist country I still have to get registered with the police every night (which my hosts do for me). Certainly not as serious as what I'm going to encounter in Russia.

Another few nights here in Bulgaria before heading north to Romania. I'm off to the beach for my morning coffee and pastries and then explore the town. Till later.

Plovdiv, Southern BULGARIA

After a mere 24 hours in Thessaloniki Greece, I got on the Balkan Express train to Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. Oh...let me just mention that Thessaloniki is really worth seeing, even if you are just into ruins, olives, fetta cheeses...and beautiful people. The Greeks are indeed very hip!

The Balkan Express Train...now that was an experience! I booked the best available, which was a triple compartment. I ended up having the entire (little) space for myself. I know trains...I used to drive trains (Snr. Assistant Driver) during my holidays while I was studying in South Africa. So, I know trains...you see I truly love trains. The best part is walking on the outside stip of the locomotive checking the meter readings while traveling at a high speed! Now those days are over so I tend to stay inside the trains these days -- which I did on the Balkan Express. This express train (an electric which does not have the charm of the steamer or even my favourite -- the diesel) stopped at about 20 towns between our midnight departure from Thessaloniki and our 9:30am arrival in Sofia, Bulgaria. At the border we stopped on the Greece side for about 80 minutes and again on the Bulgarian side for about 50 minutes. Both times a rather rude immigration official barged into my little compartment and demanded my passport, took it and vanished into the night. Fortunately, I got it back with a brand new stamp in it...I guess worth the waiting :) The Bulgarian country side makes me think of the scenery in Yentl, Barbra Streisand's finest movie...and my all time favourite. While Yentl was filmed in the former Yugoslavia, the Balkan countries are all quite similar in scenery. The early morning fog was slowly crawling across the green valleys as we rolled towards Sofia. Along the way we stopped several times in tiny towns with tiny ancient but colourful station buildings. Station masters who alternate between the red and the green flags are mainly old men but surprizingly some young ladies (was I glad our train driver didn't get out to have a coffee with these women!).

Ok, so we arrived in Sofia and I decided to make the first change to my schedule and skip Sofia and head straight for the small historic town of Plovdiv towards the south east. I had no seat for the 3 hour trip as the old lady with the bright red hair bumped me off as her ticket indicated a reserved seat while mine was a "find a seat if you can". I stood in the corridor all the way listening to the 22 year old student about how hot the Bulgarian girls are and how much he can't wait to see his girlfriend. He was totally in shock when I told him about my travel schedule over the next six months and his mouth was hanging open as I fed him with details. At the end, he thought I was stupid for not going to Amsterdam as he has been fantasizing for years about legally smoking grass in a coffee shop.

Pleasant arrival in Plovdiv...quite a nice town. I jumped into a taxi and checked into my hotel in a beautiful historical building in the old town. Stolled thru the old stone paths in the afternoon and then walked along the canal and the main Saturday afternoon cruise strip (Alexandra St) where hundreds of young and older Bulgarians gathered to listen to the street musicians, eat ice cream, and to check out all the beautiful people. While I was thinking of staying here for 2 nights...the sea is calling. On this sunny Sunday morning I am off to Burgas in 2 hours (5 hour trip) and then by bus to the small seaside town of Sozopol along the Black Sea coast where I'll stay for 3 nights to explore the towns further south towards the Turkish border. I'm now off to the morning market in the old town for some CHEAP and GOOD local yogurt and cheeses and biltong (sun dried spiced beef!) and then to the train station.

Tata!

Thessaloniki, GREECE

My departure from Hong Kong was eventful, to say the least! For one, my intended 7kg "little backpack" ended up weighing 27kg -- which almost convinced me to cancel my entire trip. I have very few clothing items in my bag...but my little gadgets and their chargers and embellishments...and my camera equipment all added up to a whopping 27kg. Off I went, not really happy that I'll have to carry this load with me around the world. Well, so be it....I'll be happy when I'm back in 6 months with loads of great looking pictures....and along the way I may just hand some stuff to the needy.

First stop was Munich, Germany. After an aborted landing just 100 meters from the ground, our Lufthansa Captain apologised that something was on the landing strip. Our 2nd landing was successful but we were almost blown away by two huge water streams from fire trucks on both our left and right sides. This was no accident -- it was a welcome gesture...but not for me, but for our Captain who made his final landing after 35 years with Lufthansa Airlines. Ok, I pretended it was a "Welcome Peter Steyn on your first safe landing of many more to come". From there I moved on to Vienna via Austrian Airways and then on to Thessaloniki in Northern Greece. A fair city indeed. So far I'm quite impressed with this little town so well documented in the Biblical scriptures. Certainly no shortcoming of ancient ruins and churches and walls and some unknown structures which date back to 200 AD (or some probably older). Nice boardwalk along the Gulf of Thessaloniki.

Well, I don't want my reports to drag on too long, so I'll end it here. I also have to go now to again indulge in the tasty Greek food. With so many nice eateries and cafes along the old streets, it is hard to decide where to eat. Tonight at 23:58 I'm off to Sofia, Bulgaria on the Balkan Express Train. Should arrive in the early morning in the Bulgarian capital from where I'll slowly work my way east towards the Black Sea and up along the coast. More of this once I get there.

Till later. Peter

Counting down my departure

This is me at the Ankor Wat in Cambodia in March 2005.

On May 11th I'm setting off on my journey around the world starting in Hong Kong and then to Thessaloniki, Northern Greece. From there I'm heading north to Sofia (Bulgaria) via the Balkan Express Train and then east to the Black Sea (Bulgaria) and later up to Bucharest (Romania). From there on to the Carpathian Mountains of Translyvania (Romania) and north east to Budapest (Hungary). After that, I'm off to Slovakia, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany, Oslo, western Fjordland Norway and then up all the way to the Lofoten Islands north of the Arctic Circle . Then south to Stockholm and flying into St. Petersburg (Russia). An overnight train will take me into Moscow and another long overnight train gets me to Tallinn (Estonia) just south of Helsinki (Finland). After a few days in Helsinki I'm crossing the Atlantic to Montreal, New York and my previous hometown of Toronto (Canada). After a good pitstop in Toronto I'm heading south to Santiago (Chile), then up to Lima and Cusco (Peru) for the Inca Trail and the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu high in the mountains. Then back to Santiago, the west coast and wine growing region of Chile, and on to Buenos Aires (Argentinia) and a few days camping in the Patagonian Mountains in the far south before taking the bus all the way down to Ushuaia -- the most southern town of South America. With some luck I'll get on a ship to the South Pole. Then...up to Montevideo (Uruguay), then Iquacu Falls and Paraguay and later to Rio de Janeiro (Brazil). Possibly a side trip to the Amazon River before heading to Southern Mexico for many days in Oaxaca and Chiapas near the Guatemala border. Before returning home in Hong Kong I'll do some body surfing in Hawaii. After a few days rest in Hong Kong I'm going to explore the islands of Thailand and Southern China before crossing the Indian Ocean to South Africa to meet up with my family and spending time along the coast and photographing wildlife in the north. Around February back home to Hong Kong before embarking on my Asian trip which will include Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, Burma, Northern Thailand, Laos, Northern Vietnam, China and south to the Indonesian Islands. Ok....when done with that I'll start working again. God be with me!