Manzanillo, COSTA RICA

Costa Rica is absolutely awesome! No wonder this is the country where I will spend more time than in any other country in Central America.

I arrived in Manzanillo by bike --- its close to the Panama boder

Today was another day full of surprizes! Here the shortlist of what I saw today in and around the jungle and beautiful beaches and villages:

Howler monkeys, spider monkeys, red and white and dark blue crabs....big crabs, many colourful birds, flowers and buttterflies, Jesus Christ lizards (those who run on the water...fun to see them crossing a strong flowing river!)....and the biggest sight of the day....another close encounter with a sloth...and this time the three-toed sloth which I have not seen before. I found it as it was so very slowly climbing up the tree and it stopped at my chest hight when it saw me. What an awesome creature!!! The three-toed sloth is even more charming to me than the two-toed sloth...and looks quite different.

The rain forest here along the Caribbean coast is so green and dense....and filled with exotic animals and other creatures. I could live right here for the rest of my life...

Puerta Viejo, COSTA RICA

I am 15km south of Cahuita in the small village of Puerta Viejo...another beautiful place with ample colourful flowers and birds, huge waves, great surfing, spicey Carib food, good local rum, forest hikes, and what more do you want...sun shine! But no...its been raining almost non-stop for the past 3 days! From here I will work my way further south by motorbike.

Cahuita, COSTA RICA

NOTE: today is Wednesday, and not Thursday as inndicated above!
SEE UPDATE BELOW IN RED

The reggae sounds of Bob Marley blaring from most bars and shops and the constant howling of Howler Monkeys unmistakably is Cahuita (pronounced: Cawheeta) here on the south Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Cahuita, the most rustic town I have ever experienced, is the Rastafarian head quarters of the Americas where Bob Marley is king, all other reggae music is queen, and dreadlocks and pot are all over town. Now I did not come here for any of the above, but to find the evasive two-toed sloth and to eat good African-Caribbean food. While I indulge enough on the good cuisine and fruits, it was only on my second day that I spotted my first two-toed sloth. The day ended after laying my eyes on several of these amazing animals. While some call them ¨useless monkeys¨, this awesome animal is no monkey and is obviously not interested in any monkey business. As they so ever slowly crawl around the three-tops upside-down, I stare with amazement that these creatures don´t fall to the ground. I guess its their smart two-toes with those extra long nails which keep them safely among the leaves.

Yesterday I did a sever hour hike (mostly in the rain), through the nearby Cahuita National Park which must be the most green and lush tropical rain forest I have ever seen.

Just a few days ago I had close encounters with Tapirs in their natural habitat (in Corcovado National Park on the Pacific Ocean of Costa Rica) -- and now the Sloths. How good can life get!?

The plan is to travel tomorrow further south along the coast and visit a refuge and more villages and jungle towards the Panama border, before returning to capital city San Jose either on Friday or Saturday night. From there its up north to conquer the active volcanoes of Poas and Arenal, and then into Nicaragua.

UPDATED A FEW HOURS LATER
Even though its now towards the end of the dry season, its been raining almost non-stop since I arrived here on the Caribbean coast. Late this evening as I walked home in the rain after dinner (I am staying in a chalet right on the beach about 2km east of the village) , I saw something moving in the dirt road (filled with potholes and rain water). At first I thought it was a cat or dog but as it was moving so slow I got closer and discovered an adult two-toed sloth crossing the road! In the light of the nearby streetlamp I could get a good look at this woolley creature. I truly enjoyed my close encounter with this magnificant animal and stroke its head, touched its two-toed long and sharp claws...and could not resist but to carefully pick it up to feel its weight (don´t ever do this as these are wild animals... :) ....I just had to do it! THIS, to me, was a magic moment to say the least.

San Jose, COSTA RICA

Arrived safely in capital city San Jose. I´ll stay here until Monday afternoon and then by 4-hour bus to the Cahuita National Park on the Caribbean Coast....in my quest to digitally capture the two-toed sloth!

Adios from awasome Costa Rica!

Puerto Jiménez and Corcovado National Park, COSTA RICA

The bus trip from the town of David, northern Panama, started at 6am. Three hours later and I crossed on foot into Costa Rica, at the town of Paso Canoas. Here I hopped onto a chicken bus which, almost 2 hours later, dropped me off at the sleepy little harbor town of Golfito -- right on the slopes of the Gulf of Dulce. From here it was a 45 minute boat ride to the tiny dirt-street village of Puerto Jiménez. Tired...eat, drink and sleep! Next morning started at 6am as I jumped on the back of the open mini truck -- collectivo -- for the two hour bumpy dirt road ride to Carate on the Pacific Coast. Carate is not much more than a store with sky-high prices. Here the fun started as I embarked on the 7 hour hike thru the jungle and on the beach to Sirena Ranger Station -- in the heart of Corcovado National Park, on the Peninsule de Orso. Here I stayed in a basic cabin for 2 nights.
Corcovado National Park has been called "the most biologically intense place on Earth" by National Geographic and without a doubt one of the most remote areas of Costa Rica.

This park is one of the most awesome natural preserves in the Americas. The mangroves, swamps and thick forest make Corcovado a botanist's dream. Animals to see -- Jaguars, pumas, tamanduás (giant anteaters), white-lipped peccaries, coaties, agoutis, tayras, tapirs, several species of monkeys (Capuchin Monkeys, Squirrel Monkeys, Spider Monkeys, and Howlers), emerald Jesus Christ lizards, iguanas, sloths, crocodiles, snakes, hundreds of green parrots and scarlet macaws and many other rare animals inhabit the forest. I saw all the above except for the jaguar, puma, peccaries, and the still evasive sloth! Woke up in the mornings at 5am (for hiking) with the sounds of howler monkeys right next to the cabin. Outside the scarlet macaws breakfast on the green nuts. Corcovado has the highest concentration of scarlet macaws in Costa Rica with an estimated population of about 1,600.

Stories of the day:
1. Crawled up to 2 meters from a 6-feet crocodile before he jumped into the river
2. Saw tapirs twice....once during the night and another during daytime. The one I saw at night actually charged at me and you can guess what I did....got great pics!
3. Swam several times in the crystal clear streams while drinking the water. Au Natural Costa Rica!

The return trip to the village of Puerto Jiménez felt easier!

Adios...as I am taking the 9-hour bus ride to the capital city - San Jose.

David, northern PANAMA

I´m in the town of David, 7.5 hours by bus north of Panama City. I stayed overnight here and will cross into Costa Rica this morning. My challenge will then be to get to one of the most remotest and unspoilt areas of Costa Rica...the Parque Nacional Corcovado (on the Peninsula de Osa) in the far south west along the Pacific Ocean. This will involve several buses and a boat and I trust to sleep just outside the park tonight in the town Puerto Jimenez. From Puerto Jimenez I will take a bus to the village of Carate. From here I have to hike along (and on) the beach for 16km to get to the Sirena ranger station which will be my entry into the park. Will have to cross the Rio Claro river and must do that during low tide (but need be careful of crocs and even sharks...but no attacks that I have heard of). Will rent a tent and camp in the jungle for about 2-3 nights. Will focus on these trails from the Sirena ranger station: Guanacaste Trail, Espuvellas Trail, and the Rio Claro Trail.

The park protects several endangered species of big cats (including the jaguar and puma), big reptiles (caymans and crocs) -- 104 mammal species (including the white-faced capuchin monkeys), 367 birds (and the largest concentration of the Scarlet Macaws), 117 amphibian and reptiles and 40 species of fresh water fish. I must find the elusive three-toed sloth! There is no permanent electricity and there are no telephones. The only means of communication is a government radio system. I´ll put up my rented tent somewhere in the jungle. Wish me luck!

Panama City, PANAMA

I arrived safely in Panama City. Leaving Cartagena, Colombia, was quite an ordeal as everybody got searched and bags entirely unpacked a few times by different lines of security. I was very glad to eventually pass through all the security (searching for drugs and who knows what else)...only then to find out that our flight was delayed for 3 hours.

Spent the weekend exploring Panama City in all directions. Visited the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal just in time to see a maximum sized German container ship passing through....after paying the US$270,000 canal fees. What a sight...and then you stand in awe of this marvel of engineering of the early 1900´s. Also spend a long hike in a national park outside of the city in my search for the ever evading Sloth....to no avail! Will hunt for this spectacular creature in both northern (Caribbean side) and southern (Pacific side) of Costa Rica over the next 7 days.

Monday March 21st I´m off on an 8 hour bus ride to the town of David next the Costa Rica border. From there towards the Caribbean coast of Panama and then cross into Costa Rica on the Carib side by Wednesday.

Adios from Panama City.

Done with South America....off to Central America

Well, its time to leave the South American continent. During July, August, and September last year, and Jan, Feb, March, this year, I have traveled through Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia. The only countries I have not yet done, is Venezuela, Guyana, French Guyana, and Suriname....latter three being very small countries in the north east.

Its hard to say which is the best...I have seen a lot of Argentina and Brazil, and less of the others. However, I will select the 5 most awesome areas I have visited in South America.

1. Galapagos Islands, Ecuador (Absolutely amazing...if you love photographing animals)
2. Salar Uyuni (Southern Bolivia)
3. The glaciers of Patagonia (Southern Argentina)
4. The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu Inca ruins (Peru)
5. The Pantanal Swamps (Brazil)

I really enjoyed all the countries I visited. Colombia was great too. Tayrona National Park in the north east of Colombia is a gem! I regret not seeing more of Colombia, Peru, and Bolivia. Ecuador with its snow capped and smoking volcanoes was stunning, including Amazonia in the east.

Look here and scroll down to South and Central America, and Hawaii, in Review for my more detailed views on South America.

I´m off to start my journey through Central America which will include Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala and Mexico.

Adios

Taganga Fishing Village and Tayrona Park, COLOMBIA

Adios from the windswept fishing village of Taganga, 4.5 hours north east of Cartagena, in northern Colombia. The village is surrounded by dry hills and beautiful bays, the streets are dirt roads, the people are dark brown (Caribbean) and very friendly, the fish dinners are cheap....the air is fresh and the never ending wind creates cloudless skies 24/7.

This is the fishing village of Taganga, only 5 km north east of the town of Santa Marta. An hour hike along the rolling dry hills and you´ll cover beautiful bays and wonderful vistas...turquoise waters and never ending horizons....all the way to Panama in the north west and the Caribbean islands in the north (closest is Jamaica). A mere 4 hours to the east is the Venezualan border. Often dusty as the winds blow, yet very refreshing to ponder life with the locals over a cool bottle of Brava Beer. We drink refreshing juices of wonderful fruits (zapote, lulo, maracuya and guanabana), blended with ice and milk if you prefer. In the evenings, a dash of local rum will do. Kids play in the shallow waters - absolutely no waves in sight for miles -- the smoothest sea I have even seen.

My breakfasts are Arepa, eggs deep-fried in flour tortillas, and my lunches and dinners are invariably fried fish of all kinds, fried rice, and fried bananas with a tidbit of grated cabbage and tomato.

As in many parts of South America, if am amazed and disgusted with the amount of garbage I see all over this place. Northern Colombia, despite its unrivaled beauty, is strewn with garbage! Today I even paid a local un-employed to clean up the beach. Thats my good deed for the day. I´ll sleep peacefully.

UPDATED
After Taganga I went an hour north to Tayrona National Park to explore the rain forests and the ancient pre-hispanic ruins of Publito, the settlement built by the Tayrona Indians. While the coastline is awesome -- among the most beautiful coast I have seen, I lost the path trying to reach Publito. As I was a mere 30 minutes into the walk through the jungle, the jungle swallowed the path, and before the jungle could swallow me, I turned around. Only later I was told that I had to literally crawl under a big builder to find the continuation of the real path. Well, so I could not reach the ruins in the jungle. Spent a few nights dozing in a hammock next to the beach, as beds are true luxury not to be found in this jungle.

I should be back in Cartagena on Thursday for my flight to Panama City on Friday afternoon. Back to civilization should be a real treat indeed!

Safety: Guerilla groups, including the FARC and ELN (M-19 recently laid down their arms), have been involved in terrorist activity all over Colombia (the world biggest exporter of cocaine), including bombings. Kidnappings are common and have involved foreign tourists where eight were kidnapped during a trek to Ciudad Perdida (Tayrona National Park) in September 2003. Despite the warnings, people (like myself) continue to travel to Colombia. So far I have only done the capital city Bogota, Cartagena and now Taganga and the Tayrona National Park. So far I feel very safe, locals are very friendly, speaks no English, and few foreign tourists are around. Highly armed Military men are everywhere. I highly recommend....come and see this beautiful country!

Cartagena, COLOMBIA

I arrived by plane (Avianca Air) this afternoon from Bogota in Cartagena which was established by the Spanish in 1533. Its the most northern city in Colombia and from here I will explore the area to the north, including the nearby islands, the mud volcano, the town of Santa Marta, a national park, and the area towards the Venezuelan border.

I´m extremely impressed with Cartagena. Its a world away from the European flavours of Bogota. The vast majority of the people of Cartagena is dark skinned, of Caribbean and African descent, with a good 60% - 70% intermixed with Spanish and South American Indian. Its the most beautiful colonial town, surrounded by a fortified wall, I have ever seen, and is very reminiscent of Salvador, in north eastern Brazil (state of Bahia).

I´m truly glad I´m here as this place is a gem. The next few days will be magic, no doubt!

UPDATED 2 DAYS LATER
Yesterday I traveled to the mud volcano of Totumo (Vocan de Lode El Totume) ...climbed up to the top and slid into a biggg mud bath...2.5km deep...yip...2500 meter deep...but I kept popping up. No way of reaching the muddy depth. The warmish smooth textured black mud, totally feels like a hot chocolate bath. What a bizarre experience. Afterwards I washed off at the nearby beach.

Today spent island hopping by boat around the islands of Corales del Rosario 35kn south west of Cartagena. Visited a great oceanarium on a far away island (open concept...outdoor) and also Playa Blanca on Isla de Baru...which was heaven on earth with blue waters, white beaches and palm trees.

Over the past 2 days traveled with fellow ex-South Africans now living in Scotland. What a wonderful married couple. Its people like this who make Round-the-World trips truly meaningful!

I am leaving on Friday March 10th from Cartagena up north to the town of Santa Marta, the fishing village of Taganga, and further north to the national park of Tayrona.

Will be back in Cartagena (and back at the Internet) next Thursday March 16th for my flight to Panama City on Friday March 17th.

Adios from northern Colombia.

Bogota, COLOMBIA

Colombia has a population of about 47 million with about 8 million people living in the capital city, Bogota. At a breathless 2,600 metres above sea level, Bogota sprawls from its rich northern suburbs to a plague of shantytowns in the south. In the middle is the decaying grandeur of La Candelaria, the colonial centre, with its grand plazas faced with cathedrals, where native Indian women squeeze orange juice and hawk bags of green mango doused in salt. In front of the catherdal, an old man look for punters willing to cast a bet on his racing guinea pigs running for their miner hats shadowing their food. This, is Bogota!

Though its estimated that roughly half of Bogota´s population live in poverty, when walking down the city streets, I was amazed to see so many well dressed and fashion conscious teenagers. People in Bogota are surprisingly European looking, with very few indigenous or dark skinned people. My guide (to protect his identity I´ll call him Diego) works with a United Nations agency and spent a full day showing me around Bogota and explaining the complexities of life in Colombia. With the scars in his back from recent gun shots when crooks tried to kidnap his aunt (about 4,000 people are currently in kidnappers´hands), he explained the dynamics among the Colombian military, the guerrillas, paramilitaries, and the drug cartels. In Colombia you should be extremely careful when talking about these issues and if you are too vocal, you could easily be eliminated. It was interesting listening to his arguments on why legalization of drugs (cocaine in particular), would be the most effective strategy to globally fight the evil, and significantly reduce this US$6-billion-a-year business.

As I arrived in Bogota yesterday, I was met with a thunderous hail storm and very friendly Colombians who don´t speak ANY English. With my growing, yet limited Spanish, I am finding my way around. Staying in a posada (guest house) in an apparently safe area -- though the surroundings look quite dodgy to me! Lots of poor people sleeping on the streets, but hey, that´s true in many cities around the world.

I spent the weekend in Bogota and really enjoyed my time here. I quickly started to feel very comfortable with my surroundings, and spent the entire Sunday exploring the old colonial areas of Bogota, the area around the presidential palace, and high up Cerro de Monserrate (mountain overlooking the city). I was very impressed with Bogota - to say the least.

I´m flying north to Cartegena on Monday afternoon.
Adios from Bogota, Colombia!