Zipolite, MEXICO

I am stuck in paradise -- Zipolite Beach. Sun, surf, and wonderful people, food and wildlife around me....I am not going to Acapulco but staying in Zipolite. From here I will go back to Mexico City via Oaxaca City to attend the Day-of-the-Dead celebrations in Oaxaca City on Nov 1st. On November 3rd I am flying to Honolulu, Hawaii.

Zipolite, Oxaca Pacific Coast, MEXICO

Life can not come in a more beautiful setting than where I am right now. Welcome to Zipolite, on the southern Pacific coast of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. See someones pictures here.

Yesterday I was on my way to the bus station in Oaxaca City to catch the 5-hour bus ride back to Mexico City when I decided to make a sharp left and divert myself to the exotic Pacific coast of the Oaxaca State. I hopped into a Chevy "collectivo" van and embarked on the 6-hour journey through the rugged Sierra Madre del Sur mountains. These mountains, 6,000–12,000 feet high, with deep, steep-sided canyons, have long been a barrier to east-west travel. The road we took yesterday afternoon (and into the evening), must have been originally built about 70 years ago and is one of the 10 most scary and dangerous mountain roads I have ever experienced. While cold and thick fog greeted us in the high peaks, the valleys were warm and tropical. By the time we reached the coast, it was hot and very humid.

Life here in the beach town of Zipolite, this time of the year (off-off-season) is laidback with a few local Mexican guys riding the treacherous waves and battling the strong undertow. The wide sandy beaches are sparsely dotted with topless Caucasian women and some people take in the sun au naturel....as unconditionally - everything goes on Zipolite Beach.

I am staying at Gloria's Shambhala (more pics) perched on the rocks in the western end of the beach. A view of Shambhala from beach and view over the beach from my room. Rooms are totally open in the front and from sleeping under my mosquito net I can only hear the thunder of the waves.

Eat your heart out from your office desk. THIS is my life :)) In three days I´m taking the winding road along the coast to Acapulco, then Mexico City and then Hawaii.

Oaxaca, Southern MEXICO

Oaxaca City, capital of Oaxaca state, is a 12 hour bus ride north of San Cristobal. Another beautiful old city with some great architecture. Surrounding Valles Centrales (the Central Valley surrounding the town) is very mountainous with a lot of natural wonders such as calcified waterfalls, pretty little villages, ruins dating from 700 AD, caves, and a lot of Mezcal factories (type of Tequila made from a cactus).

This is another truly Mexican town so rich in culture....I just don't want to leave.

Adios

San Cristobal, Sourthern MEXICO

I arrived safely in the old town of San Cristobal after an 8 hour bus-longboat-bus trip from Flores (GUATEMALA) to Palenque (MEXICO) and then a 5 hour trip through beautiful mountain scenery to San Cristobal.

San Cristobal de Las Casa is a town of only 121,000 people, but truly rich in culture and traditions. In the surrounding valleys, several small indigenous communities, all with their own distinct clothing and other traditions, is a feast to the senses. I visited the villages of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan. The latter is generally regarded as the less sinful of the two, as Chamula allows men to have up to 8 wives (if they can afford the dowries), they sacrifice live chickens in the church, they drink a lot of Tequila and Mezcal, and they are lazy and dirty. Talking about the local church (next to the zocale, or main square of the town) ...an amazing place indeed with tens of statues of saints, hundreds of candles burning everywhere on the floors while people sit around the candles and pray out loud. Holy leaders perform rituals and as I said...often chickens are slaughtered right there on the floor. A weird experience indeed. Ouch!

Hey, the fact that Chamula is the bad town is what the guide told us....and to be honest, Chamula village have a lot of strange things going on. The local markets in Chamula was totally a sensory overload -- an amazing place indeed. Don't take any pictures of most people, especially the community leaders, as it sure will land you in jail, or your film confiscated. However, for a few dollars, some, only some, residents will do a quick pose. The belief is that a picture steals a soul...unless you pay of course, then its alright (but only for some people).

Saw the Sunday morning court in session at the zocale (open air) where the well dressed community leaders (about 30 of them) listen to disputes and decide who gets punished. Anyone found guilty goes for maximum 72 hours to the open jail (also near zocale) so everybody can see who`s been bad...and when they get out of jail they do a few months community service...as policemen...no kidding. So ALL policemen are former inmates. Weird!

San Cristobal and area was indeed one of the most bizarre and amazing experiences I have ever had!

Tikal, GUATEMALA

From the little island town of Flores, surrounded by the surreal waters of Lake Flores, this is Guatemala!

Spent most of today exploring the famous Mayan ruins of Tikal, 1.5 hours north east of the Flores. At 4am this morning we left to the ruins and climbed up one of the highest ancient temples to see the sunrise over the dense Guatemalan rain forests. Virtually surrounded by the howling of the ...Howler Monkeys (which sounds more like Lions), we witnesses a beautiful sunrise. Several Toucans flew above us as the light was lit up by the morning sun. Later several Spider Monkeys made their way across the forest not far from our base.

The Tikal ruins cover a vast area of this national park and I spent a good 4 hours exploring these magnificent ruins with some awesome fauna and flora. Saw several parrots and other coloured birds which I could not identify. Got some close encounters with tarantulas, deer, and the Howler Monkeys. Did not see any Wild Turkey which was a disappointment.

Tomorrow morning at 5am I am heading back to the river for a boat ride down stream and then by bus back to Palenque, Mexico, from where I will take a 5 hour bus ride to San Cristobal, Mexico -- where I will spend 3-4 days to explore the indigenous tribal villages.

Adios

Coming Up.....on Tuesday Nov 18th

Deep in the steamy rainforest jungles of northern Guatemala (not far from Belize), hidden by the thick and old vegetation of the lowland Peten rainforest, stands the ruins of a great city, surrounded by a wide variety of wildlife, insects, and unique jungle flora.

The ancient Maya began building Tikal around 600 B.C., and for the next 1500 years the area was an important religious, scientific, and political center. Once a wealthy metropolis of 100,000 inhabitants, Tikal was the seat of power for the great Jaguar clan lords.

The 9 hour trip from Palenque, Mexico, (which starts at 6am) includes a 4 wheel drive, boat through the jungle, and a mini bus to the town of Flores from where I will take some type of transport to Tikal.

I hope to make it there and back before Huricane Wilma which is now approaching the Nicaraguan and Honduras coast

I´ll report from Tikal.
Adios

Palenque, CHIAPAS, SOUTHERN MEXICO

The Palenque Ruins must be amongst the most impressive ruins I have seen. Not because I think the Mayans had a better qualified builder 2010 years ago (compared to the Aztecs or Incas), but simply because of the lush tropical rain forest which enshrouds this archaeological marvel.

Situated close the the Guatemalan border in the far south of Mexico (in the Chiapas province), the Mayans who once thrived here ruled most of southern Mexico and Central America. Indeed a very powerful empire at the time (around 100-900 AD). When walking around these vast ruins, you can only imagine what life was like here at that time -- when tens of thousands of tribal Mayans lived here. Oh, and it really feels like Indiana Jones territory!! While I heard the howling of many Howler Monkeys....I didn´t see any Tucans (which I expected to see).

Mexico City, MEXICO

Mexico City is totally an amazing city....where the Volkswagen Beatle is still king...and many green VW Beatles are taxis (one front seat removed to allow passenger to get into the small back seat). WARNING: Dont use these green taxis! They have a reputation to rob their foreign passengers.

I can't believe the size of this city (and density) as we circled over it before landing. I can now believe that 18 million people call Mexico City their home.

From my travels around South America, I am used to "mobile merchants" ....jumping into busses and trains and stay on board for a while to sell their products. On the vast Mexico City underground train system (3rd largest after Moscow and Tokyo -- with 4.5 million users per weekday), music is the most popular product sold. Merchants jump on and off trains and in between stops we are entertained (or often annoyed) by their blaring boom boxes playing the Mexican artist they are promoting. Music is not the only product sold on trains -- on your way to your Christmas Party you can pick up a gift for all -- sweets, pocket knifes, TV antennas, screw drivers, pillow cases...something for everyone. Within a 20 minute subway ride you will have all your stocking stuffers!

I spent all day yesterday at the Teotihuacan Aztech ruins about 50 km north of Mexico City. The "pyramid of the sun" is the second largest after Cheops in Egypt. Check out this site for pics of Teotihuacan. While building engineering not nearly as impressive as in Egypt and Peru, it is still interesting to see.

This afternoon I am off to Palenque in the far south of Mexico, in the state of Chiapas, close to the Guatamalan border. In Palenque I will see impressive Maya ruins amongst the dense rain forrest with tucans flying around and howler monkeys adding to the ambiance (of an Indian Jones experience)

...and by the way, the Mexican people are really nice people..and so is the McBurrito at McD...you know them right?

Adio Amigos!

Ilha Grande, BRAZIL

Probably one of the world´s most beautiful tropical islands with beaches to die for. This is Ilha Grande, 150km south of Rio de Janeiro and then 1.5 hour by boat. Covered in a dense Atlantic rainforest with beautiful birds, and surrounded by several paradise-like coarse white sandy beaches. Made a lot of new friends and enjoyed a lot of Skol and Itaipava at sunset!! I loved the three days in paradise!

Back to Rio today and then on to Mexico City on Thursday Oct. 13th

Rio de Janeiro (2nd time) - BRAZIL

Back in Rio for two nights. Spent Saturday night between 11pm and 3am at the famous Samba school called ¨Mangueira¨ in the Mangueira favela (suburb) to see their preparation for the upcoming Carnaval 2006. This is also a ¨build our club spirit¨ so the place was filled with singing, dancing, flags, balloons, confetti...and even fireworks. The 50-60 drum beating band on the calcony was spectacular and so were the dancers -- many in constumes and they made sure to show off as much of their bodies as is morally allowed! Outside the huge community hall, the crowds enjoying the Saturday night food stands and drinking, was something I have only seen in movies. I would never have come so deep inside the favela without my guide as the neighborhood is rough...very rough people! One guy in front of me pulled out his pistol but fortunately put it slowly back -- I guess he was only giving a warning to nearby gangsters. The place apparantly is closely managed by the drug lords. While I was dying to take pictures, I´m sure that one single snapshot would hae landed me in bandages. Indeed an interesting night.

Yesterday (Sunday) was another hot and sunny day on the beaches. I spent most of the day on Ipanema Beach, which I prefer over Copacabana. I did a lot of body surfing in the big waves. The last time I had such an enjoyable time in the waves was back in Margate, South Africa, December 1973!

Rio must be the most beautiful city in the world! The views from the Christ statue (Cristo Redendor), and from nearby Sugar Loaf, are just stunning -- and that´s an under-statement!

Today off to Ilha Grande, a tropical heaven about 3-4 hours by bus/boat from Rio.

Arraial d'Ajuda and Trancoso, North East BRAZIL

From Salvador I arrived by overnight bus in the port city of Porto Seguro...then by ferry to the adjacent village of Arraial d´Ajuda. Typical Bahian village life with many Pousadas (little cosy places to stay). This is as close to tropical island life as you can get...yet not truly an island even though it feels like it. Long stretches of white beaches, rough waters, and a huge difference between low and high tides. The nearby (26 km) village of Trancoso is a smaller village where the big square in front of the old white church is still a grassy soccer field. Very long white beaches are best traveled by horses which are for rent, and while you take a rest on the soft sand, the brown tanned Brazilian boys come around with trays of fresh linguistines, prawns, and all creatures in-between. An ice cold Skol Chopp (Brazilian beer) is always on special offer.

This is beach life in the north east of the Brazilian Atlantic coast. I am taking a well deserved rest (and so is my camera) as I am spending hours relaxing in the sun, soaking up the Bahian culture....and oh....really enjoying the authentic Bahian cuisine.

Tomorrow night its time for an 18 hour overnight bus down south to Rio de Janeiro (for the second time) for 1 night and then to south Ilha Grande....a real tropical island. One week from now and its time for Mexico!

Salvador, North East BRAZIL

I´m in Salvador, about 2000km north of Rio de Janeiro along the east coast of Brazil. I came here specifically for the African Brazilian culture -- and there is no better place in Brazil to experience this than Salvador (full name: São Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos). The name Salvador means "Savior" and the full name means "Saint Savior of the Bay of All Saints".

The coast is beautiful with turcoise waters and nice white beaches.

Here, the African culture and ethnical heritage of this city founded by the Portuguese explorers in 1501 is known for their music and dancing, their rituals, beliefs, religiosity, parties, their wide dresses, and delicious their food. Regional buffet cuisines includes favourites such as Caruru, Vatapa, and Bobo de Camaras.

The annual carnival is as big as the one in Rio.

Went to see a traditional dance show last night and what an experience. Started with traditional dances on the rhythms of traditional drum beating and singing and as the show heated up, 12 world class gymnasts did their tricks to the awe of the audience. I was amazed with the flexibility of these dancers as they fly through the air and always end up on their feet. They did a 10 minute Capoeira -- the best I have ever seen. Capoeira is very popular here in the north eastern Brazil. Afterall, this is its birthplace.

I love Salvador, to say the least. Tonight by sleeping bus south to Porto Seguro and then by ferry to a beautiful place I can´t write or pronounce. Will meet up with Miki, the famous Isreali comedian who added so many laughts to my time at the Iguazu Falls.

Brazil is so different from Argentina and I love both of them!
Adeus