Saida and Tyre, southern LEBANON

The town of Saida (aka Sidon), one hour south of Beirut, is a living museum. The old part of town is an amazing labyrinth of tunnels filled with souks, living quarters, mosques, churches, cathedrals, nobleman houses, restaurants, and tea houses. Not touristy at all!

HISTORY LESSON:
Sidon (or Saida) was the third great Phoenician city-state, rivaling Byblos in the north and Tyre in the south as a naval power. There is evidence that Sidon was inhabited as long ago as 4000 B.C., and perhaps as early as Neolithic times (6000 - 4000 B.C.). In Darius' time, towards the end of the 6th century B.C., it was the capital of the fifth Persian satrapy and a showplace of buildings and gardens. The town was conquered by the Crusaders after a famous siege lasting 47 days, then retaken by Saladin 70 years later.

Tonight I'm splurging in a beautiful hotel overlooking the Mediterranean See in the town of Tyre (aka Sour). Tyre is only a 30 minute drive north of the Israeli border and has a history of incursions by the Israeli fighters. Last year (2006) , at least one village near Tyre was bombed by Israel, as well as several sites within the town, causing many civilian deaths, and adding to a food shortage problem in Tyre. Its a lovely town with a fragrant, cosy harbour filled with small fishing boats, seafood restaurants near the rocky shore....and I love my arguileh while sipping a tea and staring across the Med.