Thulle, Shibam, Kowkabam, Wadi Dhah - YEMEN

Traveling through the mountains of northern Yemen for the past two days (with my new found French friend) has been one of my greatest adventures! I stayed well south of the Saudi Arabia border as there are constant tribal / clan fighting in that area. We passed several army checkpoints but I had my police permits to travel in that area - so smooth sailing.

The journey started in Sanaa with a shared taxi - with loud Arab rock music. A 1960's Land Rover packed with 11 people in a vehicle which only should accommodate seven. While the roads are in good condition, the driver (cheek stuffed with qat) drove like a maniac. A few times we stopped to check for the best bargain qat sales as my fellow riders are stocking up. Fortunately, the spectacular views of mountains and ancient stone built villages easily wiped the fears of an accident. The landscape is dotted with fortresses and look-out points which historically have been used to spot the enemy. Now is used to spot the qat crop thieves.

More than two and a half hours of scenery, we eventually arrived at our destination, Al-Mawheet. My taxi driver asked a few hundred more riyals than agreed upon. He wont get away with this - I smiled and walked away. This ancient village is build around (and halfway up) a huge rock. What a sight! We even attended two weddings in one night. Everywhere had a warm welcome from the locals. Slept in a converted palace with a clear view of the big rock!

Next came the villages of Shibam and the very high lookout point of the stone village of Kowkabam. Next was Wadi Dhar and then back to Sanaa.

1. The men of Yemen just love to have qat orgies. They sit in small rooms, each with a plastic bag filled with qat (leaves from a local tree) and keep stuffing their faces with these leave until their cheeks bulge like that of a sax player. They suck/roll/nibble and keep replenish that ball of green sludge all day long. Qat markets - a market atmosphere like you have never seen before!

2. Most built-up areas are suffocating in garbage. Garbage everywhere! In some (not all) villages, people live in their garbage like pigs! I must say that outside the villages, and in most of the ancient stone villages, it is quite clean. It is not hard to find unspoilt nature without garbage.

3. The rice and qat terraces in some areas are spread out as far as the eye can see - high up along the hills. These terraces must be hundreds of years old. Really makes me think of Nepal and The Philippines.

4. The architecture here in Yemen is awe inspiring. Ancient buildings are built with nothing but carved rocks - no clay used - up to six floor high. Their favourite property - high up the hills, and on top of the rocks!

5. While most women in Sanaa wear the black abaya (dress), in the north they mostly wear very colourful dresses - with only the eyeballs visible - if you're lucky to see that!

6. Cars in Yemen - some cars have their steering wheel on the left, some on the right. They most of the time drive in the right lane.

This concludes my current trip to Yemen. Its a fascinating country with fascinating people. Tourists are hard to find, and easy to find places with no tourists at all. Yemen totally fulfilled my expectations and another dream has come true for me. Since childhood I wanted to visit Yemen. I WILL BE BACK!!!

Today I'm flying east (Air Arabia) to Dubai for two days and on Monday up to Tehran, Iran.