Luang Prabang, Northern LAOS

Luang Prabang, the second largest town in Laos, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, has a population of only about 22,000 people and about 33 temples. It is located in north central Laos, 425 km north of Vientiane and is surrounded by mountains at the junction of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan river.

I came here to spend time with the hill tribes (mainly the Khamu and Hmong tribes) who live in small mountain communities in the surrounding hills. Their wooden huts are modestly built and most have dirt floors. Two doors (one small door in the front and a larger on the side (the latter - not to be used by guests - and used to remove the dead), are characteristic of most homes. These people survive on subsistence agriculture (mostly rice and sesami) supplemented by hunting (not that there is much left to hunt), fishing and trading. My guess is that they live on no more than $1 a day per family. People are obviously very poor in financial means, but are very rich in hospitality. The brightest smiles I have ever come across! If Thailand is "the land of smiles", I'll dub Laos as "the land of double smiles". As they speak no English and only limited Lao language, my guide was essential to have good conversations. They don't use the Lao writing (which is similar to Thai) but use the Roman alphabet (by the few who can write).

I also came to Laung Prabang to see the hundreds of monks parading the streets at 5:30 to 6:30 in the morning to receive alms (their daily food) from hundreds of lay people lining the streets. One of the ways to ‘make merit’ in Buddhism is to give alms to the monks. It's very regimented ritual with closely observed etiquette and routines. As the monks receive their alms, they are not allowed to talk or even look people in the eyes. For me it was an emotional experience to witness the monks receiving food from the people, give some back to the people (signifies "food being blessed" by the monks touching it), and also handing out some of their food to boys (walking next to the monks) collecting the blessed food for their families.

I truly love Luang Prabang, the surrounding areas, and most of all, the wonderful people of Laos. While being ruled by a communist government, people are very supportive of their leaders (at least, that's what they tell me. Then again, they don't know any other type of goverment). While traveling outside Laos is allowed, only the wealthy can afford to do so and must provide proof of substantial assets in Laos, strong family ties, and assure the government that they will return to Laos. As for me, I sure will return to Laos in the near future!